Bob Ross had it right. Adding happy little trees to any portrait -- even those Mother Earth is already curating -- enhances our quality of life. Planting trees improves our air, provides more homes to fellow woodland creatures and are quite a sight to behold when they flower or tower hundreds of feet high. Late winter/early spring is one the best times for transplanting trees so if you're dreaming of placing a happy little tree on your own picture-perfect property, now's the time.
Why Spring is Good Tree Transplanting Weather
Spring's a great time for planting trees because:
Ground temperatures are still on the cooler side
After your tree adjusts to its new home, warmer temperatures encourage proper root growth
Tree roots love cool soil. And by cool, I mean temperature-wise and not James Dean-esque, although I'm sure tree roots wouldn't mind some suaveness mixed into their soil medium. While the air temperature feels warmer in spring, ground temperatures are much lower. Why is this so favorable to tree roots? Trees are vulnerable to transplant shock, and they're particular susceptible to shock when planted in higher soil temperatures. Lower soil temperatures place less stress on your freshly planted tree as it adjusts to its new environment. Meanwhile, once it's cozied itself up to its new digs, the soil becomes gradually warmer with summer on the horizon, and therefore gives your tree's roots that boost they need to become a robust, invaluable part of our ecosystem.
Ground temperature isn't the only factor that plays into avoiding transplant shock, though. Knowing what type of tree you're planting and its likes and dislikes are just as important.
Tree Types 101
There are two main tree types: deciduous and evergreen. Their differences pertain to the behaviors and seasonality of their leaf growth. Understanding the type of tree you're planting is vital in proper timing and care.
Deciduous Trees
Deciduous trees lose their leaves at the end of growing season and go into a dormancy period in cold weather. These trees transplant best when in this dormancy period. They're spending less energy on growing leaves and can therefore focus on establishing their roots to their new environment. Dormant trees have bare branches. Even if there are buds forming or swelling, your tree is still "asleep" and ripe for planting. However, if you see leaves sprouting, it's still okay to plant, but take extra care to keep soil moist and monitor your tree for transplant shock. If your tree show signs of shock, rest assured trees can bounce back once their roots have restored their balance with the conditions.
Evergreen Trees
Just as the name implies, evergreen trees keep their foliage all year long. While evergreens don't have a dormancy period, they're still vulnerable to transplant shock if not planted at the right time. Late winter/early spring and late fall are most ideal for evergreens as the weather is still cool and allows for less stress on the roots.
Location, Location, Location
No matter if you're planting a lush arborvitae or a dainty but hardy ornamental cherry tree, your tree's location is everything. This means the plant hardiness zone you're in, how much or little sunlight your tree's setting receives and the soil pH in your tree's new home. For example, planting a citrus tree in a nontropical hardiness zone or a sun-loving crape myrtle in full shade will be detrimental to the health and longevity of those trees because the conditions don't fulfill their needs. Here's what you'll need to know for providing an optimal environment for your tree:
Your Plant Hardiness Zone & Your Tree's Hardiness
Your plant hardiness zone is determined by the USDA based on the average winter temperatures your location experiences. Each zone is assigned a number from 1 to 13 with a 5-degree F temperature range. For example, if you live in Miami, FL, you're considered zone 11a and have 40- to 50-degree F average winter temperature. Or, if you live in Chicago, IL, you're in zone 5b and experience an average winter temperature range of -15 to -10 degrees F. Quite a difference, right? To find your plant hardiness zone, enter your zip code in this handy dandy map from the USDA.
Now that you know the hardiness zone you're in, you need to plant trees that tolerate those conditions. You want to ensure your tree will survive winter, gets enough rainfall and won't suffer from summer temperatures too. Discover trees for your zone by researching online or asking your local garden center. Both sources can steer you in the right direction for the perfect tree for your home.
To Sun or Not to Sun?
How much sunlight your tree needs or can tolerate needs consideration before planting as well. Certain trees don't mind shade such as Eastern redbuds and Kousa dogwoods. Other trees must have sunlight in order to flourish such as ornamental cherries and catalpas. Verify the type of lighting needs your tree has before planting. Good resources for your tree needs are the Arbor Day Foundation Tree Guide or your local garden center.
Know Your Soil pH
The acidity or alkalinity of your soil can be nourishing or detrimental to your tree. Before planting or even picking out a tree, confirm the pH of your soil. You can do this with a soil tester. There are a variety of tool types out there but this is one I swear by:
Once you know your soil pH levels, select a tree that fits those conditions. Or if you have soil that tests too acidic or alkaline and your heart's set on a tree that needs opposite soil conditions, you can amend your soil naturally to make it more acidic or neutralized.
In addition to your zone, lighting and soil, be mindful about structures and utilities nearby. Don't plant trees near foundation walls or vital utility lines for gas, water, sewer, cable and power. Before any tree planting, it's absolutely imperative to call 811 and schedule a utility check. Always call before you dig. That disclaimer aside, provide the right conditions for the tree you choose and it'll thank you for decades with lovely blooms, gorgeous foliage or bountiful fruit.
How to Plant Your Tree
Are you ready to start planting? Me too! First and foremost, like I mentioned above, call 811 before you dig. Once you've confirmed your planting location won't interfere with structure foundations or utility lines, you're ready to get your happy little tree in the ground.
Bareroot Trees
Bareroot trees are packaged in their dormant form, sans soil. This method is believed to help trees acclimate to their new environment faster than their potted or burlap-wrapped counterparts.
Start by removing the tree from its packaging.
Untangle its roots.
Soak the roots for about 3 to 6 hours. Keep the roots moist so they don't dry out.
Dig a hole that's large enough for the tree roots to "stretch out." Remove any nearby grass in a 3-foot radius.
Place the tree in the hole upright and partially fill the hole with soil.
Firm the soil around the tree's lower roots.
Fill in the rest of the soil. The soil shouldn't be too firm or too loose. Just right, like in Goldie Locks.
Form a water basin around the tree. This is kinda like a moat for your tree.
Water your newly planted tree. Feel free to toast to new life with your own drink.
Add protective mulch about 3 feet in diameter around the planting area. Don't allow the mulch to touch the base of the tree as this can cause decay.
Potted Trees
Potted trees are sold in nursery pots with soil covering their roots. They're sometimes referred to as containerized.
Shovel a hole that's three to four times the circumference of the container. Make sure the hole's sides are sloped. This encourages root growth.
Eliminate any grass in a 3-foot radius of the planting site.
Remove the tree (very carefully) from its pot without disturbing its roots or soil. If your tree is root bound, cut an "x" across the roots at the bottom of the pot and then four vertical slices along the sides of the tree's root ball.
Place your tree in the hole. Make sure the root collar (the portion of roots right before the base of the tree) are at the top of the hole.
Fill in the hole with soil. Ensure there aren't any gaps between the root ball and walls of the hole. The hole needs to be filled in completely.
Create a water basin around your tree.
Water your tree. Kick back with your own beverage while your tree takes its first drink in its new home.
Cover the planting area with a 3-foot circumference of mulch. Don't allow the mulch to touch the base of the tree.
Balled & Burlap Trees
Balled and burlap trees are field-grown trees dug up and placed in a wire basket wrapped with burlap once they reach a specific height (typically 4 feet).
Dig a saucer-shaped hole, approximately five times the width and depth of the root ball.
After digging the first hole, follow through with a second hole, about two to three times the depth of the root ball.
Remove any grass in a 3-foot radius of the planting site.
Position your tree in the center of the hole. Do so by picking up the tree by the root ball only. Handling your tree by the trunk can cause it to separate from the root ball.
Cut vertically along the wire basket. Remove any burlap, wires, nails and other hardware used to hold the tree's root ball in place.
Fill in the hole with soil. Ensure there aren't any gaps between the root ball and walls of the hole. The hole needs to be filled in completely.
Create a water basin.
Water your tree. This may be a good time to take a water break for yourself. Tree planting is hard (but very rewarding) work!
Cover the planting area with a 3-foot circumference of mulch. Don't allow the mulch to touch the base of the tree.
What if I Don't Want to Plant a Tree but Want to Help Reforest Our Planet?
If you don't have room on your property for more trees or simply would rather donate to reforestation efforts, there are a couple nonprofits that focus their energy on planting trees in places that need them.
Here are some nonprofits you can donate to:
Whether you chose to plant your own tree or donate to a reforestation nonprofit, all the happy little trees and the planet will thank you. Most of all, you'll thank yourself. Happy planting, Mother Earthers!